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Meatdryer HookMeatdryer Hook- Regular price
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$155.00 CAD - Regular price
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- Sale price
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$155.00 CAD
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Protective Fly Net for Drying Meat & GameProtective Fly Net for Drying Meat & Game- Regular price
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$40.00 CAD - Regular price
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$40.00 CAD
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Meatdryer Artisan KitMeatdryer Artisan Kit- Regular price
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$215.00 CAD - Regular price
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$215.00 CAD
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Butchers Twine for Hanging MeatButchers Twine for Hanging Meat- Regular price
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$25.00 CAD - Regular price
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$25.00 CAD
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Not a hunter — or want to go deeper into the crafts themselves?
Game isn't beef
Three things make wild game its own problem.
It arrives all at once. A whole animal comes down in a single afternoon, and every part of it needs a decision within a week or more.
It's lean. Most curing recipes were written for pork. Game dries faster than they assume — same recipe, same room, different result.
And the fat rule flips depending on what you shot. A wild boar carries its own fat and behaves much like pork. A deer barely does, so the fat has to come from somewhere else or you end up with something dry and tight.
None of that is difficult once you know it. It just isn't what the books tell you.
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After the shot
The clock starts here. A warm carcass and a warm gut are where things go wrong, and nothing you do later undoes it. Your hook has no job yet — this part is you, a knife and the daylight you have left.
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Where you gut it
If you can, bring the animal back to your cool hanging space and gut it there. It's cleaner, it's easier, and you're not working on the ground. Field dressing where the animal fell is the option when it's too heavy to move, or when it'll be a while before you get back — hang it, gut it, then take it home.
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Getting it home clean
A game bag, or large plastic bags, for the trip. Keep the carcass off the dirt and out of the dust. Most of what goes wrong at this stage is handling, not time.
Where you'll hang the animal
A whole animal needs more room than most people first picture, and it needs to be cold. A proper cooling room is the ideal, and not many people have one.
What most hunters use is a garage, a shed or a cellar — somewhere unheated, out of the sun, where air can move around the carcass. Ideally somewhere free of insects and vermin; failing that, use a protective net and hang the carcass high enough to keep pests away.
Without cooling it's seasonal. The space follows the weather, and a mild autumn decides how long you can hang before you have to break the animal down. The hook reads the temperature and humidity where the carcass actually hangs, so you know what the space is doing rather than guessing at it.
Hanging and aging
Aging is what happens when meat is left hanging in cold, moving air. The meat's own enzymes loosen the fibers while moisture leaves the surface, so it comes out tenderer and tasting more of itself. It's a combination of three things — time, temperature and humidity — and for some pieces weight loss is the fourth, though that's a step further on.
Days on a calendar are how aging has always been counted, and it's still the number on a store-bought label. So the hook counts aging days — the number the trade uses, where 21 days means 21 days at a proper chill temperature. Your shed won't hold that exactly, and meat ages faster when it's warmer, so the hook converts as it goes: in a mild week you reach a true 21 days sooner.
Prefer the raw measure? Degree days — temperature multiplied by time, always in Celsius — are there as an option. The app carries the target for each animal and cut.
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Before it hangs
The lower legs and the head come off first. Then it hangs, and everything after that happens with the animal off the ground.
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Skinning
Easier warm than cold. Some hunters leave the skin on right through the aging — it keeps the meat clean and stops the surface hardening into a crust you'd only trim off later. Others take the hide off early to keep ticks and dirt out of a space they've just cleaned.
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Butchering
Done cold, done clean, and done unhurried. Front legs, hind legs, saddle, neck, then the muscles out of each. Quartering an animal where it fell is for the mountain, when you have to share the weight out — it works, but it isn't where you'd choose to do this.
Deciding what becomes what
This is the fork in the road, and drying is only one of the roads.
Plenty of it is best eaten as it is, once it has aged. The loin, the sirloin and the tenderloin want nothing more than gentle heat — sous vide, or slow and low — and they're the reason people age meat in the first place.
Then there's what you cure. Parts of the hind leg — the top round, the bottom round — make excellent biltong, and that's a good first project. The whole hind leg is the full prosciutto or jamón: not difficult, but a long commitment and probably not where you start.
The rest — shoulder, neck, trim — is for mincing. Sausage, salami, burgers.
Which cuts to cure
Backstrap / loin
Hind leg, in pieces
Whole hind leg
Belly / flank
Along the spine
Top, bottom and eye of round
The whole back leg
Over the ribs
Small, even, no bone
A few pounds each
The biggest piece on the animal
Small on a deer, generous on a boar
Bresaola, lonzino
Biltong, bresaola, cecina
Air-dried ham — prosciutto, jamón
Pancetta, if there's fat on it
Yes
Yes
No, a long commitment and not your first piece
Yes, if you have boar meat and it's cold enough
Curing and drying
Curing is the salt and spice stage, and it decides what the meat can become. Drying is what happens afterwards.
Salt. Coarse, non-iodized, straight onto the meat. How much depends on the cut and the recipe — you can coat it generously and let time decide where it lands, or weigh the meat and weigh the salt so it can't drift past where you aimed. This is the one step where guessing costs you the piece.
The cold rest. Sealed container or vacuum bag, in the fridge, left alone. The cold keeps things safe while the salt travels evenly through the muscle instead of sitting in a crust on the outside.
Rinse, then dress it with spices. Rinse the excess salt off — what you want is already inside. Vinegar over the surface if you like it: it lowers the surface pH, adds a light tang and helps the next layer hold. Pat it properly dry, then a thin film of olive oil so the spices stick, then the spices. Pepper, juniper, fennel, garlic — go easier than instinct says, because the crust concentrates as the meat dries.
Cold smoke, if you want it, goes in before the spices. It adds flavor and nothing else: the meat never gets hot, because what comes off the hook at the end is air-dried and raw.
Then it hangs. Tie it with butchers twine so it hangs straight and dries evenly, and hang it on the hook — or on the accessory hook, for heavier pieces and whole hams. Curing is decided by weight loss rather than by the calendar, so the meat is weighed the whole way down with the temperature and humidity read alongside it. If there are insects about, use the fly net — it's shaped to stand clear of the meat rather than lie against it, so what they meet is the net and never the surface you're drying.
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Wild boar
The one that behaves like pork, because it nearly is. Prosciutto from the hind leg, coppa from the neck, pancetta from the belly, salami from the shoulder. It carries its own fat, which makes it the most forgiving animal to start with.
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Deer, elk and moose
Lean, dark, and the best bresaola you'll make. The backstrap dries into something close to lonzino, the hind leg into air-dried ham, the rounds into biltong and jerky, and the trim into venison salami. The fat has to come from somewhere else — pork back fat is the usual answer.
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Small game and birds
Less traditional, and worth trying anyway. Hare and rabbit dry small and fast. A cured duck breast is one of the best things on this list and among the quickest — the magret you've seen in a deli is farmed rather than shot, but the method is the same one.
Questions
Does the Meatdryer work for both aging and curing?
Both, and it's the same hook. Aging runs on time, temperature and humidity — that's a hung cut or a whole animal, nothing added. Curing starts with salt and then dries to a target weight. The hook tracks whichever one you're doing, and most people end up doing both.
How much weight can the hook hold?
Up to 15 kg (33 lb) the meat hangs from the Meatdryer itself and weight loss is tracked along with everything else. For dry aging you don't need to hang it at all — hang the hook beside a heavy cut, a side, or a whole animal on the rail, and it reads the conditions the meat is in.
Will it work in an unheated shed or garage?
Yes, and that's where a lot of this happens — but it's seasonal. Without cooling a shed follows the weather, and in a warm climate that rules out a part of the year. The hook reads the temperature and humidity where the meat is hanging, so you'll know whether the space is working rather than hoping.
Is the netting safe against the meat?
It's designed not to touch it. The net stands clear of the surface, so what the insects meet is the net and never the meat — and it's breathable, so it doesn't slow the drying.
How long before I have something to eat?
It depends entirely on the cut. Biltong and jerky are a week or two. A loin is a few weeks. A large whole ham is several months, and can be up to a year. The app tracks it the whole way and tells you when you're there.
What's in the Meatdryer app?
It's included with the hook, and it's where the readings turn into a decision. Recipes from around the world — pancetta, serrano, biltong, wild boar, smoked game — from novice to master, with room to write your own. Live temperature and humidity against what the recipe wants, so you can see where your space is drifting. The Lab, where each project is saved with notes, pictures and tags, so the next one is better than the last. And the learning library: how the hook works, how to pick a spot, how to cure, dry and age. Over WiFi the hook reports on its own; where there's no coverage it keeps measuring and syncs when you're next nearby.
Do I need anything else?
Less than you'd think. A knife, somewhere cool to hang things, salt, and the hook. Everything after that is preference.
One hook covers the whole season — the hanging, the aging and the curing.